I have taught people who are completely inexperienced to climb natural rock walls in the traditional way. Recently, they climbed with friends in Beijing who loved this type of climbing. I feel that if there is a more comprehensive tutorial that uses traditional methods, it will not only be helpful for beginners, but also useful for basic friends. But writing or translating something like this is a lot of work.
I recently wrote an outline. Although each point is enough to write a big piece, I only wrote a few points on the concept of the traditional way of climbing and the most important anchor points. Did not involve equipment climbing. Many things can be found in other languages ​​in Chinese. Hope useful.
(a) Basic concepts and principles History.
Technology Climbing: The need for group protection and expertise to ensure a safe climb.
Concept: A type of freestyle climbing, as opposed to a modern sport climbing (completely protected by a short-distance inflatable bolt). In the process of climbing, the leader is protected by the leader to protect the knots at any time, and is cleared and removed by the followers when the group is left.
Advantages: Can be used to climb new routes that have not been climbed and explore the unknown new world. The route remains basically the same after climbing. Each group must consider how to climb and protect itself (including technical protection and self-help in the event of an accident). All subsequent climbers still face the same challenges as their predecessors and get the same experience. More in line with this concept: to completely rely on one's own ability to solve the climbing problem that a natural world raises for people, and to be safe.
Limitations: Because the leader needs to set his own protection, consume time and strength. Protection is not always reliable, and the leader cannot fully focus on technical actions. It may not even be possible to climb and protect. There are reservations when choosing the technical difficulty of the route. Artificial rock wall training will give people an illusion: artificial rock wall helps to exercise strength endurance and make difficult technical movements. These are just a few aspects of the security climb, and even non-critical aspects. Few artificial rock walls can practice cracks and pure friction techniques commonly used on natural rock walls.
Protection method:
Protection during travel: All group members move at the same time.
Sub-paragraph protection: Protectors at a fixed anchor point ensure the safety of the leader and the group.
Rope: Basic equipment for protection. Dynamic rope and static rope. Falling factor. UIAA equipment standards.
Basic knots and rope sets: There are 8 knots, knots, single knots, and knots (fisher knots).
(b) Protection points
Concept: A lanyard point fixed to a rock used by a climber. In the event of a fall, the protection point can be shortened by means of a rope to reduce the distance of fall, reducing or preventing the falling person from being injured. The basis of reliability: the reliability of the surrounding stones.
Use natural objects: living trees, stone holes, corners, stones stuck in cracks. . .
Use artificial equipment: protection point force. Besides equipment safety standards. Long flat belt.
Equipment use methods, precautions and advantages and disadvantages:
Reusable: rock plug. Hexagonal plug. Triangle plug. Mechanical plug. Hard steel rock nails. . .
Mechanical plugs are generally easier to use than ordinary rock plugs. But poorly placed mechanical plugs are harder to see than poorly loaded rock plugs. Rock plugs are relatively inexpensive and light, and skillful use of rock plugs is a basic task for traditional climbing.
Once placed: inflated bolts, soft iron rock nails. . .
Complexity: Less reliable protection points. Route bending: rope friction, actual drop factor, yawing, cutting.
Rope pull direction: multi-directional and one-way protection point. Double rope climbing technique.
Practice quickly setting up a reliable protection point.
(c) ensure (belay) and anchor (anchor)
The concept of assurance: The dedicated, reliable protection provided by the protector in a safe and secure location.
The concept of an anchor: A natural or artificial device that secures people or things to the rock reliably. Provide the most fundamental safety guarantee for technical climbing. The difference between an anchor point and a protection point is that the former aims at *fixed*, which generally refers to fixed people, so it is sometimes called an inter-segment protection point. And the anchor point is much higher than the protection point in terms of reliability requirements. A leader of a group can set any number of protection points. However, this knot group has at most one anchor point. The anchor must never fail. If you find that you can't build a reliable anchor point to continue climbing, either stop climbing or accept the fact that this knot group will be dead from now on.
Basic requirements for setting the anchor point: The protector is fixed on the anchor point. Require anchors to be stable (each point can independently receive a high drop coefficient fall, which is mainly learned when learning to set protection points), redundant (more points, do not put the safety of the anchor point at one point. There should be at least three The equipment point or two high-quality fixing points, such as a big tree or a good expansion bolt, balanced (more points at the same time), no extension (when the impulse is received, the entire system does not change its structure and is affected by the relaxation itself) Force direction, accept unnecessary shocks).
Anchor position selection and when to segment: Comparison of various protectors: ATC, Sticht Plate, tuber etc, single loop, self-locking (GriGri, GiGi etc), protection around, Use 8 words correctly to protect the leader. Use the already installed anchor.
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