Tradition and modernity ----
1975-1984 I peak and II peak in Gaschulomm
After climbing Manaslu, I became a mountaineer climbing two peaks of 8000 meters. At that time, there was only one living mountaineer in Europe who had such a performance. He was Kirt. Demborg. I did not mean to "compete" with Curt. The Brontat and Dhaulagiri peaks he climbed were all virgin peaks. At that time, few people even visited those two areas. However, naturally, I have the idea of ​​becoming the first person to reach the summit of three 8,000-meter peaks. However, the more important thing for me at that time was to explore new ways to climb the 8000-meter peak and to fight for mountain sponsorship.
I hope that climbing out and expeditions can be organized according to my wishes. I will select talented people to form small teams to carry out large-scale climbing activities. One or two people to go to the summit of 8000 meters is the model I pursue. The advantage of a lean person is that it is not necessary to use mountain haulers, nor to set up high-altitude camps and roads in advance. Of course, you can also use no oxygen, just like I had two 8000-meter peaks.
But what about funding? The money that I earn is not enough at all. My mountain climbing activities in 1970 and 1972 were achieved thanks to the support of many friends of Tai Ruolin and my savings throughout the year. After returning from the mountain, I sold pictures and movie data taken in the mountains and did some consulting work to make money to improve my climbing gear. I also had a mountaineering school, talked about classes, wrote books as long as I could raise money for climbing, and I did everything. Every success I gained on mountaineering was due to my total commitment. I want to use this kind of dedication to get financial assistance, and use this as a basis to plan my own actions. If I can cut down on mountain equipment, I will not need to hire a large number of porters in Nepal and Pakistan. This will save money.
It is now easier for me to raise funds than in the 1970s. This is because the public’s interest and awareness of climbing adventures have increased. In the 1970s, no one thought that the “climbing column freelance writer†I was embarking on was a serious difference in earning money. At that time, some mountaineers’ plans could be sustained through advertising sponsorship, but they could not plan a costly Himalayan expedition. The situation in the Alps cannot be the same as entering the Himalayas. If I want to form a team myself, I must raise funds myself. This must not only be conceived, but must also be practical.
Thousands of young mountaineers are beginning to take the road of my youth. I hope they will gain something in this book and hope that my experience can give them help and encouragement. If anyone with enthusiasm and idealism can devote himself wholeheartedly to his beloved cause, he will surely succeed.
The most important thing that I must do before I can achieve an idea is to think, think carefully about every detail and then take actions. It was my first important idea to climb the peaks of the Himalayas in the “Alpine wayâ€. The “Alpine way†is a traditional way of climbing. Its technology was originated and developed in the Alps in the past two hundred years. It climbed from the foot of the mountain, camped or not camped, and stayed up until it reached the top, and then it descended. Each person carries his own items and does not carry out road exploration and road construction. I want to explore whether this can be used to climb the highest mountain in the world. This traditional way of climbing has never been used in the climbing of the Himalayas, because mountaineers generally believe that assuming an 8000-meter-level mountain peak requires a series of camps, ropes and alpine haulers. These are all very arduous tasks that are time consuming and laborious.
The chance to try to reach the 8000-meter peak in the Alps has finally arrived. In April 1975, I was pleased to receive a permit issued by Pakistan to clear the Shuloum I peak. The Karakorum region of the entire Kashuum Brum I, II, and Chogori had been closed for mountaineers for several years. We were the first expedition to gain access to this region. After I received this valuable license, I decided to invite Pete-Hippy to walk with me.
Pete not only found a sponsor, but a television company also let us photograph the climb. These incomes allow us to balance the budget and not owe others money.