Bogda Peak climbing personal equipment and climbing technology difficulties

Personal equipment for Bogda Mountain climbing includes:
Mountaineering shoes, crampons (good quality, good front teeth), seat belts, ascenders, descenders (large eight-letter rings, do not use small baskets, and small eight-letter rings), five wire ropes, grab knot ropes, and long hail A short (or not) and helmet (when I was climbing last year, I was struck by a small stone, the arm was swollen and rough, the small stones coming down from the mountain couldn’t be seen at all), the down jacket (or not), and the sweaters and pants. Emergency clothes, waterproof gloves, wool hats, climbing mirrors (one spare), headlights, sleeping bags, moisture-proof pads and so on.

Several dangerous points climbed on Bogda Peak
1. The traditional route from C1 to C2 is a chamfered route. The route is very long and difficult. We climbed this time from the bottom of the icefall area. The main danger comes from the snowfall on both sides of the mountain and the rolling stones. It may not be large at the end of July, but there are more rolling stones, large ones can be avoided, and small ones are difficult to find, so the team members should wear helmets.
2, from C2 to C3 slope is very large, there is a section of cross-cutting, absolutely can not miss. We all have route ropes along the way, but when crossing knots, we must use grabbing knot ropes to fix them and then change the ascent devices. Do not be afraid of trouble. We must climb the procedures strictly.
3. When approaching 5080, it is necessary to climb a 70-80 degree ice chute, but also to pass one of the Daping slabs. This is the most difficult and dangerous part. We also use the thickest route in this section.
4. The route leading to C3 has a long period of cross-cutting. The slope is very steep. It is necessary to pass a single person along the route and one can not miss it.
5, there is a snow trough leading to the peak time, it is also very steep, to use the front teeth climb.
In short, the team members should be able to skillfully use the ascenders and descenders and also prevent the descenders from falling off. Once they fall, they will also use iron cables. Be sure to do a good job of protection after opening the riser and not be idle.

Some newcomers to this mountaineering must be able to grasp themselves correctly and must not be forced. The captain has the right to make a decision to stop the climb based on the climbing conditions of the players. I hope everyone can fully understand it. After all, Bogda Peak is a difficult technical mountain.

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