It might cost more than a Patek Philippe to get a simple watch that only shows minutes and seconds, but you also have to pay a large deposit and wait patiently for two or three years. For many people, the answer would be a clear "no." However, for those who truly value independent watchmaking, it's worth every penny. Why do independent watchmakers command such high respect? I believe it's because there's no mass production spirit on the assembly line—handmade pieces carry a sense of personal craftsmanship and superiority.
Today, the watch industry is dominated by large conglomerates, and true independent watchmakers are becoming increasingly rare. Remember this: the rarer something is, the more people desire it. There aren't many independent brands that live up to their name, and most are niche players, like Aibo, a Swiss independent brand known for its exceptional collectible value and dedication to traditional craftsmanship.
When it comes to independent watchmaking, one name stands out: Philippe Dufour. What makes him so respected among collectors and critics? After reading an interview with his friend, I finally understood a bit more about his philosophy.
"I have no secrets like past watchmakers did. There are graveyards full of secrets, and that’s enough," he once said. Many biographies, TV documentaries, and even a Japanese comic book have covered him. But from what I learned, his personality can be summarized in five words: practicality, tradition, innovation, pursuit of perfection, and creativity.
Born in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Valle de Joux, Dufour studied at the Ecole Technique de la Vallee de Joux at 15 and became a master watchmaker in 1967. He worked at Jaeger-LeCoultre, where he learned from Gabriel Locatelli, a master who had a huge influence on his career. Later, he moved to the Caribbean, returned to Switzerland in 1974, and worked at Audemars Piguet and Gerald Genta. But he always felt that factory work didn’t align with his ideals.
In 1978, he left his job and set up his own workshop in Le Sentier, focusing on restoring antique timepieces. This experience deepened his appreciation for classical craftsmanship and gave him a unique perspective on the art of watchmaking.
Dufour was deeply influenced by Gabriel Locatelli, and many watchmakers, including Eric Coudray and David Candaux, studied under him. Before Locatelli passed away in a car accident, they had collaborated on a watch that Dufour still wears today.
Unlike other independent watchmakers, Dufour spends a lot of time repairing antique watches, which not only expands his knowledge but also inspires new ways of thinking. Eventually, he found his own style, creating watches inspired by the period between 1850 and 1920, blending art with mechanics.
Although he never called himself an innovator, Dufour’s work speaks volumes. His 1992 Baselworld debut, the Grand Sonnerie, shocked the watch world. It combined three musical complications into a single, elegant timepiece, with a double-sided design and a flip-up case. He was also one of the first to use CAD tools in watchmaking, pushing boundaries and opening new paths for independent watchmakers.
For Dufour, watchmaking isn’t just a craft—it’s an art form. His pursuit of perfection and attention to detail are unmatched. Beyond his status as a master watchmaker, he is a humble, kind, and down-to-earth person. Those who know him describe him as humorous, sincere, and generous—someone you can easily connect with.
His dedication and passion have made his watches highly sought after. Collectors are willing to pay a premium for his work. But more importantly, his story reminds us of the dignity and spirit of independent watchmaking in an age of mass production.
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