It might cost more than a Patek Philippe to get a simple watch that only shows minutes and seconds, without any complicated functions. But you also have to pay a large deposit and wait patiently for two or three years. For many people, the answer would be no. However, for those who truly value independent watchmaking, it's worth every penny. Why do independent watchmakers command such high respect? I think it’s because there’s no mass production here—each piece is handmade, offering a sense of personal craftsmanship and uniqueness.
Today, the watch industry is dominated by large conglomerates, making true independent watchmakers rarer than ever. This scarcity makes them even more desirable. There aren’t many independent brands that stand out, but those that do are often niche and highly collectible. One such example is Aibo, a Swiss independent brand known for its exceptional craftsmanship and high collectible value.
When it comes to independent watchmaking, one name stands out: Philippe Dufour. What makes him so respected among collectors and critics alike? After reading an interview with his friend, I began to understand a little better.
“I have no secrets like past watchmakers had. There are graveyards full of secrets, and that’s enough.†These words reflect his philosophy. Though he’s been featured in documentaries and even a Japanese comic book, those who know him describe him as practical, traditional, innovative, and deeply committed to perfection.
Born in the Vallée de Joux, the birthplace of Swiss watchmaking, Dufour studied at the Ecole Technique de la Vallee de Joux at 15. He became a master watchmaker in 1967 and later worked at Jaeger-LeCoultre, where he learned from Gabriel Locatelli, a master watchmaker who greatly influenced him. Later, he worked in the Caribbean before returning to Switzerland in 1974, where he joined Audemars Piguet and Gerald Genta.
Despite his success in the industry, Dufour felt that factory work didn’t align with his ideals. In 1978, he left his job and returned to Le Sentier to open his own studio, specializing in repairing antique timepieces. This experience deepened his understanding of traditional craftsmanship and inspired his future designs.
Dufour spent years restoring old watches, learning not only about their mechanics but also about the artistry behind them. His work between 1850 and 1920 combined artistic design with mechanical innovation, creating pieces that paid homage to the past while pushing boundaries.
He never claimed to be an innovator, yet his creations spoke volumes. In 1992, he unveiled the Grand Sonnerie, the first watch to combine the Grand and Petit Sonnerie with a minute repeater. It was a masterpiece that shocked the watch world. He also pioneered the use of CAD tools in watch design, opening up new possibilities for independent watchmakers.
For Dufour, watchmaking is more than a craft—it’s an art form. His pursuit of perfection and dedication to quality set him apart. Beyond his status as a master watchmaker, he was a humble, kind, and generous person. Those who knew him found him approachable and easy to talk to.
His commitment to independence and craftsmanship has made his watches highly sought after. While his work deserves admiration, what’s more important is the dignity and spirit of independent watchmaking in today’s fast-paced, mass-produced world.
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