Get Down - treading the anchors and lowering safely from sport routs By Dave Pegg
It could be your first 5.6 or your first 5.14, but the route doesn't end with a victory yell at the anchors -you also have got to back back. This anticlimax leads to most sport-climbing accidents: The route is "over, "so the leader and belayer stop concentrating; one of them make a mistake, and the guy on the rock ends up splattered on the ground.
This may be your first 5.6 or 5.14, but the route does not end when you reach the top to receive cheers, you must also return to the ground. At this point, the climbers and ensurers are easily distracted and do not keep in touch. This is the most common accident climbing step.
Treading and lowering from the anchors at the top of a sport route is simple. But the process should not become thoughtless. Know the drill, and put the same amount of focus into getting down safely as you do into your climbing. Otherwise your next big Send could be your last.
Falling from the anchor is a simple matter, but it does not mean that you can be rash. Repeat practice and focus until you fall safely to the ground. Otherwise, the next time may be the last time you climbed.
If these are equipped with carabiners or open-shut hangers, simply clip in the rope, or drop it over them, and lower. Know the drill. A standard lowering station consists of two anchors.
Know the drill standard's drop point will have two expansion anchors. If there is no lock shackle on it, then directly lock the rope lock into the shackle and then drop (of course, you have to make sure the shackle is safe!).
If not, you'll need to tread the rope through a metal chain, ring, or large ring-shaped bolt hanger (never tread rope through webbing or a regular bolt hanger). Start by attaching yourself to both anchors with two quickdraws. The When the quickdraws should be clipped into the belay loop or tie-in point of your harness with their gates facing in the opposites. Ideally, the quickdraws should also be long enough to let you hang down, rather then pull out the anchors. When clipping into a chain, leave the bottom link free for the rope (figure 1).
If not, then you must pass the rope through the iron chain, O-ring (this is the type of hole in the dragon's hole), or the ear of the big hole (Don't pass the rope through the normal size of the ear piece. This will seriously damage you. The rope!). First, hang yourself on two anchors with two snaps that must be reversed on your sling. Ideally, the length of the snap ring must provide enough space for your activity. When you fasten the buckle into the chain, remember to reserve the end of the iron ring for the rope. (Figure 1)
Figure 1
Now reel up about five feet of rope. Tie a figure-eight knot in this loop, and clip it to the belay loop or tie-in point of your harness, using a screwgate biner to be on the safe side (figure 2). This important step stops you from dropping the rope and keeps you backed up to lower bolts should the lowering station fail.
Next, pick up the rope about 1.5 meters, make a double eight, and use a locking hook and loop to buckle your sling (Figure 2). This important action can make you accidentally fall off at the falling point and can also be below The expansion anchors are pulled.
Figure II
Next untie your climbing knob, tread the station, and tie back into your harness normally (figure 3). Release the figure-eight knot holding the backup loop, and wait for your partner to "take"you with a reassuring tug (figure 4 ). Finally, unclip the quickdraws from the station and lower.
Then untie the rope tied to you, pass through the O-ring or the iron chain, and finally tie the rope back to your sling (Figure 3). Untie the spare knot, and inform your rope partner to tighten the rope (figure 4). Until you feel that the rope is tightened, it will be buckled and then lowered to the ground.
Figure 3
Figure 4
Avoid the blunders
Got that? Good ...but not so fast. Now let's look at the essential safety checks.
First, never take the leader off belay. Who's to say he won't unclip from the station and lean back on the rope while you're still peeing in the bushes.
First of all, never let yourself be in a state of no guarantee.
Examine the station. If you don't completely trust it or have to retreat from a single anchor, back yourself up by abandoning a single carabiner on the protection bolt immediately below the station and leaving it clipped as you lower to the ground.
Test the drop point. If you don't believe in the drop point or just use a single anchor, you can add a quick snap to the next bolt as an alternate fulcrum.
Is your cilmbing knot accurately tied? Is your harness doubled back?
Begin to descend, unlock the buckle before re-confirming whether the knot is hit, whether the sling has a rebate and other details.
Communicate with your partner. The contract exchange is, "Have you got me?"Wait for your partner's response and until you feel the tension in the rope at your waist before you commit to the lower (figure 4). If direct communication is impossible , have a prearranged system: One rope tun means, "Clipped to the station."Two sharp tugs: "Have you got me?"Three sharp tugs from your belayer: "Got you."
Keep in touch with your rope partner. If you can't talk directly, you should find other contact methods in advance (for example, pulling a rope to represent some specific things)
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