What does it mean?

On February 10th, a Beijing-based ice climbing enthusiast suddenly crashed when climbing ice in Shuangqiaogou, Siguniang Mountain, Sichuan Province.

When the media reported the accident, the title used the word "falling." Many people did not know that the word was a "sacred horse." Therefore, I compiled a query to carry some other senior enthusiasts' text information to answer questions for everyone.

Falling is a technical movement in rock climbing and ice climbing. It is a special term. English is the fall.

People who have seen rock climbing or ice climbing at the scene all know that there are ropes on the climbers. The ropes are put on the protection points of rock walls and ice walls. Usually, every time a few meters rises, a protection point is made. Ropes and protection points are the lifeline of the climber.

If you accidentally missed the climb and fell, it is a fall. Safe protection points and ropes will pull the fallen climber from the ground and will not fall directly on the ground, but will pull in the air and then slowly descend to the ground with the help of the ground protector.

If the falling gravity is too large and exceeds the upper limit of the first protection point, the first protection point will be pulled off and the second protection point will be effective. Multiple protection points are multiple life guarantees for climbers.

If the protection points are all pulled off, the climber will fall directly. This is a fall accident.

How to Crash in Rock Climbing

Original text from the translator's bud

For rock climbers who want to advance, falling is a basic skill. As people often say, "If you don't fall, it means you are not working hard enough." To make progress, you need to push yourself to the edge of ability - even beyond your ability - and when you try so hard, you will fall. It is safest to make the top ropes to fall, but it is also safe to have a well-guarded vanguard to climb and fall. As long as your skills are strong, the protector can do it. Before starting the climb, carry out a risk assessment of the Pioneer Pendant you may have experienced: If there is a platform or corner you will hit on a low-angle rock wall, you must ensure that you cannot fall. Otherwise, it is necessary to place more protection or to climb back to a safe place before falling.

have it done... ...

If you feel that a fall may happen, give your guardian a warning. Shouting, "Look at me!" (Domestic rock fellows generally shout "Let's go!")

When you fall off, shout "Fall it!" If you have already started falling, don't shout "Take the rope!" A good sports climbing protector will show a distinct feeling when he hears "falls off" and "recovers the rope". Different reactions. If you say "Failed", the protector may lock the protector, but if you hear "receiving the rope", the protector may move backwards and then pull it tighter to prevent the Pioneer from having any movement that may cause a fall.

Look down to see your own touchdown and obstacles. This will enable Pioneers to safely fall in an optimal posture.

Exhale helps to relax the body. Counting loudly, though it may not be too windy.

Relax your legs. Keep your arms and legs slightly bent and your knees “soft,” ready to absorb all kinds of impact. I thought to myself: I must be like a cat.

Keep your hands up, forward and open a little outward so that you can maintain the best balance and avoid scratching your hands on the rock wall or grab the rope. When you swing into the rock, let your legs absorb the impact.

Do not do... ...

When falling, do not let the rope behind the feet or legs. This may be burned by the rope or lifted by the rope, with the head down. When climbing, always pay attention to the direction of the rope: The protector should also be reminded when the rope is found behind the leg. Keep the rope always in front of your legs or between your legs, especially when the line starts, draws the rope through the eaves, and hangs the rope into the quick hanging. When you are traversing, do not step directly on the trampoline so that the rope will be behind the body; instead, pull your feet from behind the rope to keep the rope in front of the body. If the rope is behind your ankle or leg, take some time to adjust the rope to the front.

Don't push rock walls when you fall, unless you're an expert in this area and you can be sure that pushing rock walls can help you avoid standing platforms or obstacles. Otherwise, pushing the rock wall will make your body lose its balance. It will also let you slap the rock wall after the rope is straightened.

Don't grab anything to try to stop yourself. Scratching, protection points, or ropes can cause severe burns or serious injury to your fingers. (A lot of climbers lose their fingers like this.) Let the protector and the rope fulfill their obligations.

Fall practice

Falling is a technique that can be improved by practicing. "Practicing the fall" can eliminate blemishes before climbing difficulties, or heal long-term tension.

Choose to practice on vertical rock climbing walls (indoor or in the field) or on slightly elevated rock walls.

Choose an experienced protector. You must be looking for a protector who has both trust and protection.

Choose to practice at a height of at least 10-12 meters so that there will be more ductility in the entire system to absorb the impact and there will be no chance of falling.

At the beginning, you will start to fall from the top rope (that is to say, you still carry the pilot climbing, but fasten the rope in the position higher than the waist). Then plunge from a point where the knot (connected with the seatbelt) is higher than 0.15m, and then 0.3m, 0.6m. Focus on the "done" details of good crash techniques.

Exercise often to increase muscle memory (and mental memory).