First, warm up and relax
1. The importance and principle of warm-up:
Myofascial tension after exertion, when the tissue is tightened and shortened, the elasticity becomes worse, the force is not buffered, and it is easy to collapse. Basically, the strained position is the location of myofascial tension. Therefore, it is necessary to solve this problem by warming up, relax the taut and shortened fascia, recover its original physiological length and elasticity, and fill it with blood and synovial fluid to prepare for the next high-intensity training.
Therefore, a good and comprehensive warm-up must have these elements:
1 The blood circulation speeds up and the blood is full of muscles
2 Stretching allows tensioned fascia to restore length and full of elasticity
3 The joint-loading movement allows the joint to be filled with synovial fluid, including the spine and vertebral joints that are most easily overlooked. In fact, from the aspect of human biomechanical function, the flexibility and strength of the spine are the most important.
4 The Excited Nervous System and the Cardiovascular System must Be Excited This is the most basic point. If it is not possible, it is not a full warm-up.
2. Warm-up and relaxation of major muscle groups
Online search: Shama's yoga warm-up method
With instrument relaxation:
Tennis: Massage small muscles in the tissues of the jaws
Foam Shaft: Large Area Muscle and Fascia Massage
Rolling pin: massage the plantar fascia, you can also lick the thigh
3. Warm-up and Stretching of Fingers (from Stone Sky)
Warming your fingers before climbing:
My own finger stretching action is a state of exertion with both hands and arms. Slowly extending refers to extending the maximum range of motion. Afterwards, the force continues to pause for 1 second, and then slowly returns in reverse to ten fingers. This is a complete action. Each time you do a full dozen can warm up as a finger before climbing. As a post-injury rehabilitation exercise, the degree of exertion should be smaller, between 30% and 50%, and it should be understood that no pain shall prevail. This movement can exercise the extensor and flexor of the hand well, because it is self wrestling, so it will not cause harm.
After climbing, fingers stretch:
Finger stretching is a bit complicated and not well described. The principle is to maintain the position of pain tight for 20 to 60 seconds, and stretch to restore elasticity on the line. You can hold your fingertips against each other, push against each other, bend against the maximum range of motion, and then hold. You can also use the method of keeping moving for 5 to 8 seconds and continuing to advance. The same applies to the side of the finger, with the other hand helping to stretch it to the side.
*Recommended books:
"Sport Anatomy Book"
The sore pull anatomy book
Stretching - The Best Sports
Precision Stretch
Second, Injury Cases & Rehabilitation Act
Case 1 Finger bending limited
Q: When the right ring finger bends to a certain degree, it will hurt. It cannot flex like a healthy finger and stick the fingertip to the fingertip, but it can be straightened. Pressing the distal phalangeal joint and the proximal phalangeal joint can cause pain.
You can only bend to this level and then you need to use the external force... But with the help of external force, it will hurt...
This injury lasted for half a year. The earliest injuries were caught without a hot finger at the beginning of this year. After crawling, I felt joint pain. I felt nothing and started to climb after taking a rest for a week or two. However, I started to ache after climbing a few times. I rested for two weeks. Pain - rest for another two weeks, alternately for half a year... The pain has become more severe after the increase in the frequency of climbing in the last month... What are the possible causes and what methods of rehabilitation?
A: The wound has actually healed. But the mechanism of our body is that it will think that extra strength is needed, so the formed scar tissue is very strong, but it is very hard and brittle. It also adheres to the surrounding tissues to form more "sturdy" scars. However, this will make the organization lose its elasticity and shorten, and its stress will be more easily strained. Therefore, it is necessary to do a stretching exercise in time after healing upstairs. (Usually the small strains healed in 35 days) Pulling away the adhesions, shortening the stretched ligaments and restoring their original length and elasticity.
It's been a long time still hurt, because it is tight and dangerous warning.
Solution: The other hand assists in stretching and it feels tight and even a little painful. As long as you think of it as a "safe" range of pain. If you feel the danger of this pain, loosen it a little. Do not worry about it. The extent of stretching is based on your own proprioceptive feelings. Move forward a little bit, until you feel unsafe. Hold it for 20 seconds. Do not press in the end, do not stretch to pain. But as your ligaments and tendons become more and more flexible, you can gradually increase the amount of stretching, and you can gradually press the end.
If you don't feel comfortable grasping the strength and magnitude, you can also use external forces. Stretch with the finger's own flexion.
Q: Where is the direction of stretching?
A: Stretching the position you feel tight is the exercise that stretches the tension. The direction is the direction of the elongated muscle fascia.
For example, this ring finger has limited functionality and cannot be bent to the end. Why can't you bend to the end? Because the fascia of the back of the finger is shortened, in order to increase its amplitude of motion, we have to press it down with the help of external force. Gradually increase the length of the fascia behind the finger. Just do the action in your photo, try to flex as much as possible and keep it for 20 seconds. This is no problem.
Q: Do you need to stop climbing and stop for a long time? What can be done during a stop?
A: Stop climbing for three days and concentrate for three days at any time. Usually three days can be opened. However, depending on the characteristics of the organization, it tends to return to a shortened state, and it is better to stretch and hold it later.
Judgment yourself, how long you want to rest. But rest does not mean "resting." I recommend rushing into the "rehabilitation training program" for up to two weeks. The purpose of rehabilitation training is not to improve athletic ability, but to restore the body's "original function," so the training intensity and amount must be moderate. The principle is not to trigger pain, heat comfort is better.
There is no blood circulation in the joints, so nutrition must be delivered by applying pressure to the articular cartilage and ligaments. You have to exercise. Doing protection I found it to be a good finger to resume "movement." I tried it myself. The secondary wrist ligament and the flexor muscle were very nervous after doing the last few days of training. After doing a day of protection, the palm of the hand became hot, and the blood circulation usually became lithe. But after exercise, you can't forget to stretch and massage.
Case 2 Swollen finger joints
Q: What is the reason that joints have been swollen and not swollen? Is it also necessary to stretch and press to recover? Swelling for several weeks, little finger, before poked on the rock, there are 3,4 weeks, and now is to press the joints will hurt, bend the little finger will also hurt, very obvious swelling.
A: When the body has a significant inflammatory response, eat plenty of fruits, vegetables and nuts. The body's repair hormones rely on them, and they are also anti-inflammatory. There are also growth hormones needed for rest and body repair that are only secreted during sleep. Rest enough. The little finger can do more activities but not strength, with the aim of promoting blood circulation and stretching slightly. Give it a try.
Q: The joints that touch the little finger can obviously feel bigger than the other little thumb joint. Is it because of inflammation?
A: It is not easy to say now because of what may be inflammation. It may be that the tissue fibers are thick. In another month, it must have been the thickening of tissue fibers. After one week, there was no swelling, and the bernolactone (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug) was eaten.
When inflammatory pain affects life, it is good to use the least expensive bernolide that has the lowest side effects. If the pain does not affect the action or sleep, in fact do not take medicine. Eat more fruits, vegetables and nuts, eat less greasy foods. Better than you take medicine.
Remember, long-term inflammation is certainly not a local problem, it is a manifestation of a whole body imbalance. Just like acne, you ointment ointment, that works, is the imbalance of the chemical level in the body. It is necessary to make adjustments in the way of life and adjust the balance of the whole body.
Case 3 Injuries to the fingers for two years, joint pain after healing again after healing.
A: After the stress period, stretch is the pain to be done every day. Many times it is not an injury but a warning about injury. Must maintain the elasticity of the tendon. Each stretch is sufficient for 30 seconds, no discomfort can be maintained for 60 seconds, and 2 groups per stretch can be 2 to 5 times per day. Tightness and comfort do not hurt. Do finger stretching, finger exercises, and then add finger stretching, arm extension, and do full arm and shoulder extension. This is more complete. Because the muscle fascia is connected, the tension on the entire chain must be removed to avoid further tightening.
Q: Do I need to wrap tape when climbing?
A: If you must climb, you have advantages and disadvantages. Without touching, the finger body is sensitive, and can always observe the degree of endurance and damage, but it lacks protection; when it is wrapped and protected, it can share the power, but the feeling is not well communicated, and it is not easy to detect and easily aggravate. If I choose, don't wrap the tape. When it warns, it means it's time to stop. However, if you want to compete, you need to do your best and it will be better if you wrap the tape.
Case 4 The knuckles are thick and the fingers are not straight
A: How to avoid the thick knuckles?
Q: The knuckles are deformed because of repeated long-term injuries. The injury recovers. The fibers in the ligaments become thick and cluttered and hard and brittle. Over time, thanks to the disordered fibers, this is the case. If you often take a stretch, you can avoid deformation.
Q: What if my fingers are not straight?
A: Just insist on stretching can be changed. Connective tissue has infinite flexibility and extensibility. Do reverse stretching, each time to tighten the comfort degree. Can be corrected. If you do not get up straight, keep the maximum range of "stretching" and stretch straight for a week to restore straightness.
Case 5 Joints cannot be pressed down, joints ring, and pain
Q: I press my right middle finger to make a sound but it hurts; if the ring finger doesn't go, I can only “click†but it's not painful. Initially the ring finger was pressed but it hurts. Can you find out if you are free to answer this question?
A: What you said without injury is soft tissue adhesion, tightness, and lack of elasticity. Fibers are thick and disorderly. Stretching and massage restores tissue elasticity. Massage can be simple and you can use your other hand to massage, you can press and hold for 10 seconds, slowly release, 3 to 5 times in a row, insist on doing it every day. If you have finger strength training, increase the number of massages and stretching each day. Squalling is the characteristic of tension and adhesion. Massage can be resolved. Add tension to hold.
Reproduced from: Climbing the world
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