This article is based on a copy of the 180th issue of Matt Samet. The article is not a direct translation. It has made some changes in the prologue and has largely kept the focus and intent.
The author crashed before finishing the climb on an on-sight route. So painfully determined to enhance the ability of on-sight, and come up with six key methods, and the first word of each method is combined into a head word FLABBO, the following six methods for this:
1. Be familiar with and get close to the route:
Take at least five minutes to observe the route before climbing. Remember every detail as possible, the type of hand, the position of the rest, etc. When you go up to the rock wall, some handle points will not be visible due to the problem of visual field. To think of the challenge that this line brings to you, not the level; to face the rock wall with a pure mindset, rather than this may be my first on-sing 5.11c/d, or have some Someone is watching me waiting.
2. Break point:
Grab every opportunity to recover your strength and strength. First of all, pay attention to the obvious rest points (big jugs, stems, and kneebars, etc.), and then find out the handles that can be grasped or paired by your hands, and judging from the little handles, you can take a break and rest. In addition, pay attention to the hook ring will make you a single arm consume a lot of power (to be able to make appropriate arrangements).
The same foot is also the same, find the foot that will make you more balanced.
3. Prepare a possible cracking method:
It is necessary to first imagine all possible actions, such as Plan A, Plan B, etc. If this is not possible, try another one immediately and use its advantages as much as possible. What you usually do for the first time is what you do best to break through.
4. Do not neglect easy places:
When you are struggling to overcome difficulties, simple places may also make you climb half dead. Don't be contemptuous, and work hard and concentrate on everything from beginning to end. If you pass through difficulties during on-sing, but fall where the dogs are climbing up, it will definitely make you die.
5. Retain the power:
Some routes are quite laborious in the last few moves, but you may not be able to observe them from the ground when you are on-sight. If you have the opportunity to rest, no matter if you feel powerless, because you can't really know what will happen next.
6. To the dead:
In order to make a breakthrough, we must not give up lightly. It does not look beautiful or beautiful. Strive to fight, refute, dyno, violence, deadlift, until you exhaust every energy in your blood. Never say "pull me", never take shackles, never give up. However, all of the above must be done in a safe and carefree situation. “Safety first, goal second, face lastâ€.
What is FLABBO?
1. Familiarize yourself with the route.
2. Locate rests.
3. Arm yourself with possible sequeences.
4. Beware "easy-looking" terrain.
5. Beware exit cruxes.
6. On-sight the @$$%ing thing!
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