Oak barrel making process

There are strict operating procedures for making wine oak barrels. Usually the oak is cut in the fall or winter, when the oak is low in moisture. The ideal oak should be 100-150 years, and the oak barrel company buys the trunk part to open the barrel (Staves).

When opening the barrel board, the trunk is first cut into an appropriate length, and then divided into four companions. Remove bark, sapwood and knots, cracks, tree wormholes, etc., and smash it into a barrel. Europe generally uses a tree-like pattern instead of a saw. First, European oak has many vents, and the oak barrels with saws and barrels are prone to leakage; the second is that the texture of the sawn barrels is exposed, resulting in more raw tannins. American oak has fewer stomata and is lower than French oak as described above, so it can be used to saw open the barrel. The yield of sawn barrels is much higher than that of split barrels, which is a factor in the low cost of American oak barrels.

The barrel plate is 50% moisture and needs to be dried. Whether in France or the United States, wine oak boards are naturally dry. Stack the barrels together, leave a gap, dry in the open air, let the wind and rain hit. In fact, rainwater can wash away some of the unpleasant ingredients that are often found in hard tannins and new open sheets. Drying the barrels to equilibrium humidity typically takes 18-36 months. American whiskey barrels in oak barrels are dried, so the effect is quite different from that of wine oak barrels.

Oak barrel making

1. Docking and Grading Staves When drying, the ends of the barrel are sometimes cracked. Cut off this part and carefully check that each piece of the board is intact. At the same time, separate barrels of different qualities are separated.

2. Dressing Staves Determines the inside and outside of the barrel. The double-sided cutting machine processes the barrel into a desired shape with a concave inner surface and a convex outer surface.

3. Joining Staves The barrel splicing is the edge of the processing barrel, which is the key to determining the bending of the barrel when loading the barrel. The barrel plate is processed to be wide in the middle and narrow at both ends. The width in the middle of the barrel determines the middle diameter of the oak barrel.

4. Assembling the Barrel This step is a manual operation. The barrels are pieced together on a solid iron barrel mold, the top ends are tightly spliced, the ends are open, and they are fixed with several barrel sieves.

5. Bending the Barrel In order to bend the barrel into an oak barrel, the barrel is heated, some are heated with steam, and more commonly fired with water. After steaming, cover the open end with a rope, sieve the barrel board, and then cover it with a barrel sieve. An oak barrel is basically formed.

6. Firing, Trussing and Toasting The barrels that are trapped by the drum screen are very stressed. At this time, put the barrel on the fire to dry the water to increase the moisture, and reduce the pressure on the barrel. Then use several barrels of sieve to screen the barrel, so that the barrel is balanced and gradually sewed. Bake dry and sieve bucket for about 30-40 minutes. At this time, the barrel will be baked as needed. The degree of roasting depends on the time. The longer the time, the heavier the degree of roasting.

7. (Crozing) After baking, cut the ends of the barrel with a cutter to cut out the end plate slots.

8. Making the Heads The barrel end plates are relatively simple. Place the barrels on the cutting edge of the cutting machine and polish them. Then piece together into a barrel end plate. Nail holes were drilled at both ends of the plate, and nailed with wooden dowels or jointed steel nails.

9. Cutting the Heads Use a machine to cut the end plates into circular shapes of the specified size. The exact diameter of the end plates is critical and must be determined before cutting.

10. Fitting the Heads When installing the end plates, loosen the bucket screen at the end of the barrel and embed the end plates before sieving.

11. Finishing the Barrel Clean up the smudges inside and outside the oak barrel in a variety of ways, with the machine being soiled or decontaminated with sand to make the oak barrel look clean.

12. Fitting the Final Hoops Instead of the drum screen, the bucket is screened by a special machine.

13. Testing Finally, the test. Use hot water to test whether the barrel leaks. If there is pressure on the hot water, you can test whether the barrel leaks. If leaks are found, the barrels can be repaired or replaced. Some winemakers are willing to buy oak barrels that have not been tested with hot water, and think that hot water can cause mold and other problems.

After the oak barrels are made, they are wrapped in plastic film and shipped to customers. Each oak barrel is made from more than 40 pieces of oak that are randomly selected. Separate slats come from different oaks grown in different climates, different soils and rainfall conditions, and perhaps these oaks grow in different places along the road. Each oak barrel is made with a reasonable number of slats to form a reasonable average, but it must not be considered that each batch of oak barrels purchased from the same producing area has the same flavor.

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